A day with Sri Lankan friends and a flash parade of monks

Dec 14

We woke up early as a former coworker of Ron’s wanted to see us before she had to go out of town. Lashan is a petite woman with a smile that lights up a room. She arrived at 7:00 and we visited for about 45 minutes before she had to leave for work. We went downstairs and had breakfast, fish curry with rice. We ate a small portion as it wasn’t to our liking.

Afterward, we headed out for coffee and muffins at the Cinnamon Grand Hotel. The Grand is a favorite place for wedding receptions for the wealthy. We got to see a parade of gorgeous saris and men in their finest dress. Ron snapped a few shots then we walked over to Beira Lake behind the hotel to get some photos.

There is a famous small temple built on the lake and today there was some type of formal celebration with Kandy dancers and drummers. Kandy is a town in the central hills of SL. Their elaborate costumes alone are worth the show. There were many monks in three or four different shades of cloth and there were monks of every age in attendance. They left the temple on the water and paraded to Gangarama, a very famous Buddhist temple a few blocks away. 

We followed along with Ron snapping photos when he could. There was a perahera elephant leading the way. Perahera is a cultural festival. Kandy is most famous as perahera is when Buddha’s tooth is paraded through the city. We witnessed perahera in Colombo when we lived here and it is quite a spectacle with many elephants dressed in elaborate costumes with sequins and lights. 

We spent some time at the temple grounds which includes a large museum of what we assume were gifts to the temple, including expensive cars. Buddhist priests take a vow of poverty which is why you see them dressed in robes of a simple saffron cloth only. So it is interesting how much wealth is given by worshippers to temples in Buddhist countries. It was starting to get really hot and Mr. K took us back to our Airbnb.

At 12:30 Mr. K picked us up and took us to the home of our former housekeeper. Geetha and I had a love affair. We could not speak each other’s language but we developed a deep love and respect for each other. After we left Sri Lanka, I was able to communicate with her through a worker at the Asia Foundation using email. Herath could translate for both of us. Geetha passed away while we were living in India and I was able to attend her funeral here.

Each time we return to Colombo we are invited to her home for lunch. She has three adult

daughters and at least four grandchildren I am aware of. The meal is always my favorite food that Geetha cooked for us when she was working for us: chicken curry, rice, beets, morning glory vine and brinjal which is a delicious eggplant dish of little fried silvers of eggplant. We chatted a while and took photos. In Sri Lanka when you are invited to a meal in someone’s home, the tradition is you are served your meal and the family does not eat but rather they stand around in a circle and watch you eat. Yes, as a matter of fact, as an American it is uncomfortable but this is their tradition and we participate in it gladly an honor.

Geetha loved cream soda and I never have liked it. So I always kept some in the refrigerator for her. Somehow, she thought I liked it so any time we eat at her house I am served cream soda and yes, I drink it.

Tinesh is Geetha’s oldest grandchild. When we left SL, I gave Geetha a little table and chair she used in her day room where she changed clothes. She always wore a sari to work then changed into what I call the SL house dress which is a long (to the ankles) shapeless cotton dress. Basically, it is a long piece of yardage with a hole cut in the middle of the length for the head to pass through and straight seams up each side with room for the arms to pass through, a very simple and yet functional garment. Geetha was so excited that her grandson would have a place to study with the desk and chair. Tinesh is now 21 and a very tall and handsome guy with a gorgeous smile and dimples. He is studying computer science and he works part-time to pay for his schooling. We hope to assist him with his tuition cost. I asked him today to let us know the cost for his tuition and I would work something out before we leave on Tuesday. I told him we wanted to help since I don’t know the actual cost. But I assume anything will help.

We returned to our AC for the afternoon and we will leave at 5:30 for our third ‘friends’ event’ of the day: dinner at Mr. K’s home. He has a grand garden loaded with orchids. Unfortunately, it will be dark, I think. when we get there.

Mr. K picked us up at 6:30 and gave us a mini-tour on the way. His daughter, her husband, and their ten-yr. old daughter, Kylie live with him. Over a year ago during a monsoon rainstorm part of his house collapsed after one of the walls split. The entire family pitched in and rebuilt the home. They used sub-contractors for the finish work, but they did all the rest. It is now a gorgeous home with balconies overlooking the garden.

We brought a large fruit basket for them and a card for Mr. K with reimbursement for our

week’s fares. He did not open it in our presence and we were grateful since he refuses to accept payment for his services. We were given a tour of the house and it was a real treat. The floors were black and white large tiles. In one room they also had some rich granite tiles used as a border around the blank and white tiles. The handrailing to the upstairs was a rich wood and wrought iron with twisted stock. It was very attractive. There was a sitting area on a landing and one wall was open to the outside. Iron bars were spaced to allow a large tree limb to enter the room and it was hosting orchids. A lovely touch. The seating was concrete benches with cushions. This feature allows built-up hot air to escape. We had a similar feature in our house here.

we had an atrium in the entry that went up the three stories of the house and there was a two-foot gap between the walls and the roof of the atrium, allowing hot air to escape. In the Kularathna house, rain could come into that sitting area but all they would need to do is remove the cushions from the benches.

The family had prepared a SL feast for us. Ron loves a stir fry dish called kottu roti. Mr. K made it for us. They set up the ‘table’ which has a large round grill that is gas-fired. They used shredded cooked chicken, shredded veggies such as onions, chilies, carrots, shredded roti, wheat flatbread, and egg. Once the grill is hot, you stir fry the veggies and roti and crack an egg on it, stirring the entire time with two flat blades with a wooden handle mounted at the top of the blade. There was a prawn curry, string hoppers, and other dishes that I have managed to forget since I waited two days to write this. For dessert, there was fresh papaya with lime juice squeezed over the top and pineapple. SL pineapple is the best with a center core tender enough to eat. We were served sweetened lime juice, ginger beer and wood apple juice they make themselves. Mr. Kularathna hovered as we ate, replenishing our plates at every opportunity. Again, this was a traditional meal so Ron and I ate while the family surrounded us standing. Kylie was allowed to join us. I don’t think kids can wait too late in the night to eat their meal and she is a delightful child so we were pleased she sat with us. We visited some more after dinner and then felt it was time to go so the family could have their meal. Ruwani stayed home and Thompson drove us in his car to our Airbnb with Mr. K and Kylie in tow. It was a perfect evening.